Turning Scraps into Treasures

There is waste and then there is waste.  Perhaps you can relate based on your own kitchen experience.  Scraps of pie dough in the oven with butter and sugar?  Discovery of sauteed beet root greens? In the Vosges Haut-Chocolat kitchen things melt, break, and get trimmed.  Yummy things that create yummy waste.

One of our most popular comfort foods, the Caramel Marshmallows were born out of desire to make a use for a yummy by-product.  We make our crunchy Caramel Toffee in sheets and then coat is with milk chocolate and then sprinkle on walnuts and pecans.  In order to sell bite-sized portions, we then break the toffee into chunks. When breaking this coated toffee, a small rain shower of crumbled nuts touched with chocolate that haven’t fully secured to the toffee.  At first, we all took turns bringing home bags of toffee crumble, as we called it, to sprinkle over ice cream.  But, as production grew, we had more crumble than we could use.

A brainstorm session led to the idea of marshmallows, then we considered caramel and then of course… I had to coat it all in chocolate.  Perched proudly on top, crowning our new Caramel Marshmallow creations, the leftover toffee crumble found its day in the sun.

The top photograph showing snacks of buttery, soft fresh caramel  is a common one in our kitchen when we make our Exotic Caramels and Wink of the Rabbit Caramels.  Batches are made in our old copper kettle (never more than 120 pounds at a time.)

We then pour the caramel on trays to cool.  After it is room temperature, we measure the caramels and cut them by hand, one-by-one into a perfect bite-sized morsel.  The by-product of our equally sized cut caramels is a pile of edges.  Our tray of caramels is brought to the enrober where the bites go under a chocolate waterfall, coating them in either milk or dark chocolate.  While the chocolate is still wet, we sprinkle freshly ground spices or organic nuts on top.

So, we find our way to my conundrum.  These piles of caramel scraps call to me.  Some are eaten of course.  But do they have a path to better ending?  Might they be as lucky as the toffee crumble and find their day in the sun?  What would YOU do with these caramel scraps?

Anxiously awaiting your ideas,

Katrina

A letter from my friend David Romanelli with whom I created Yoga + Chocolate.  David is excited to share something new: Yoga for Foodies beginning next Friday in NYC. Here’s a letter from David:

I recall being out to dinner with a friend who proceeded to take my food and splice n’ dice it into many small pieces. It turns out the woman had two small children and was so accustomed to the duties of motherhood, she assumed I needed my food prepared in child-size digestible chunks. Such is life in today’s world where every little thing is spliced n’ diced into quick tweets, short videos, and brief emails. Anything too big or too lengthy is an instant delete.

Have you ever considered that the speed and need for efficiency and brevity has gotten the best of us?  Who has time to indulge in big, sweeping thoughts or savor profoundly delicious meals? I invite you to step out of the rocketing comet of life and into an oasis of deliciousness and relaxation. This Friday, January 22 in New York City is the launch of Yoga for Foodies. Honoring the Slow Food movement’s plea for a more sustainable pace and system, the evening will begin with my flowing yoga class followed by a guided meal with New York City’s renowned vegan chef Joy Pierson of Candle 79.
Visit here for more on this Friday’s NYC event.

Namaste

David Romanelli
www.YogaforFoodies.com

Pairings of Tea and Chocolate

I have been submerged in tea of late though my wont of combining tea + chocolate is not entirely new.  I first infused jasmine tea in white chocolate when I started Vosges in 1998, it was in my list of first 21 truffles ever created, but it was cut from the exotic truffle collection launch. Then years later is was finally debuted in the spring Les Fleurs du Chocolat truffle collection.  The Siam truffle combines jasmine green tea, lemongrass, fresh coconut and Dominican white chocolate and topped with a bright marigold petal (the combo based on an across the river, barefoot drinking tea memory at The Oriental Hotel’s spa in Bangkok).  The fragrant jasmine tea against the sweet white chocolate is as refreshing as a honeysuckle spring gale.

Some years later, I added the Matcha Bar to our line of Exotic Candy Bars after attending my first Japanese tea ceremony in Kyoto. Japanese Matcha Green Tea (a young green tea pulverized into poudre) is combined with 41% deep milk chocolate. The grassy and bamboo undertones of the green tea gently rise around deep milk chocolate, making this a can’t-stop-nibbling bar.

More  recently, I have further immersed myself into tea + chocolate pairings through collaborations with tea experts. My friend Arsen is owner of Argo Tea, another Chicago-based food company and a neighboring boutique at O’Hare. There is many synergies between the two of us in our gathering of teas, spices and flowers from around the world, so Arsen and I decided to create a tea and chocolate series for his tea shoppes. The three new bars include Chai, Green Tea Ginger Twist and Tea Sangria.  I am currently working on my favorite with their breathtakingly beautiful hibiscus pomegranate tea. Stay tuned.

Last week, in order to taste some teas from another tea friend, MLTea, I broke out my new Zojirushi electric water heater specifically for tea.  It takes all the guesswork out of perfecting tea brewing.  You just set the temperature for the proper tea and start infusing.  If you are brewing all tea at the same temperature, you must get up to speed!  Find a basic tea brewing temperature guide here. Or, just buy a Zojirushi to do all the work for you.  Ahh… Japanese gadgets, I love you.

To pair tea + chocolate, gather a few of your favorite teas and a variety of chocolates.  (The Exotic Mini Candy Bar Library will get you off to a good start.) I usually like to take a sip of the tea first to warm my mouth.  Then, a nibble of the chocolate and another sip.  It is good to experiment taking the chocolate in while the liquid is still in your mouth or after.  Inhale deeply and become aware of the different flavors evolving on your tongue.  In a proper pairing, the two will enhance each other.

Some of my favorite MLTea-Vosges Exotic Candy Bar pairings were the Kyoto Rice tea with Matcha Bar or the Naga Bar.  The toasted rice adds a warm toasty flavor that is nice against Naga’s curry.  The Verbena Mint Organic is nice alongside a straight Organic Dominica Noir dark chocolate.

Both tea drinking and Exotic Chocolate Bar tasting lend themselves to ceremony.  This winter, break out your teacups and linens and turn a cozy afternoon into a tea pairing party.

Mamajuana – Dominican Republic Vitality Herbs

If an aphrodisiac has been  used repeatedly for hundreds of years, does that mean it is proven to work? Well, let’s find out.  In preparation for my Valentine’s Day aphrodisiac collection, I have been experimenting with oysters, champagne, roses, chillies and now Mamajuana.   Historically, this mixture of roots and herbs has been used for over 800 years originally by the Taino Indians who inhabited the Caribbean and the region known as Hispañola in the times prior to Christopher Columbus.

Today, the blend of herbs are regularly used in the Dominican Republic and are fermented, cured and then mixed with rum, vermouth, honey, molasses and other ingredients to produce a potent liqueur.  Mamajuana is also known as the “Baby Maker” and “El Para Palo”, which means Lift the Stick!

Want to test 800 years of history?   Below is a list of ingredients to gather before you get started!

Mamajuana Herbs – You can buy your magical herbs here.
Molasses – I like Plantation Blackstrap Unsulphered (at Wholefoods)
Honey – Try Raw Manuka honey for extra health benefits. (at Wholefoods)
Red Vermouth – I used Noilly Pratt Red
Rum – I like Cuban Matusalem Rum

PRECONDITIONING HERBS
Fill a 700 ml or larger bottle with dry herbs.  Fill bottle to the top with Red Sweet Vermouth.  Insert supplied rope filter and cap bottle.  Shake well and set aside for 3-4 days.  Shake well to loosen sediment, remove rope filter and dispose of liquid (Vermouth) contents only, not the actual herbs or rope filter.

BREW PREPARATION
In a separate container combine and stir: 2 oz. honey, 6 oz. Red Vermouth, 1/2 teaspoon of Molasses, 6 oz. of plain, Mango or Pineapple flavor white or dark rum. Taste mix.  More rum wtih strengthen rum taste and more Red Sweet Vermouth with sweeten and tone down rum flavor.  Do not use more honey than recommended.

Fill Mamajuana herb bottle with prepared mix, replace rope filter, replace cap and allow bottle to sit undisturbed for minimum of 48 hours. Note: First batch may be a little strong.  HOwever, each new batch will get smoother.  New batches require minimum of 2 days of fermentation before drinking.  Follow same preparation instructions above for all refills.

Serve room temperature or over crushed ice.  And, be sure to check out the new Sweet Coquette Collection when it launches mid January.

Chocolate Oysters

As I mentioned in the last post, I have been enjoying oysters in my kitchen for the past weeks as I scheme up Valentine’s Day chocolate aphrodisiacs.   Being that the oyster is the mighty, famed symbol of aphrodisiacs how could I not tempt fate and conjure up something with chocolate. The nuances of an oyster are multifarious. There are many varieties and they range in complexity and strength from delicate to pungently powerful.  My preferred choice for oysters are the Kumamotos from the bays of Northern California. These oysters are like inhaling the sweet breath of the sea.  They smell of fresh tidal pools trapped between the mossy rocks.  James Beard once said that oysters are  “one of the supreme delights that nature has bestowed on man. … Oysters lead to discussion, to contemplation, and to sensual delight. There is nothing quite like them.”

Much like chocolate, the oyster is a mysterious love that cannot fully be explained. For this recipe, I have chosen to anoint the oysters with chocolate in its nearly basic form, the cocoa nib.  Mixed with some fragrant ginger and tart green apple, you will discover a variety of texture while your nose uncovers layer after layer.

Oysters with Cocoa Nibs, Ginger and Green Apple

Yields approximately 1/8 cup and can be used on 2 dozen oysters.

1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
1 teaspoon cocoa nibs
4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon tamari
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon granny smith apple brunoise
1/2 teaspoon sugar

Clean and shuck oysters. Find step by step instructions here. (I prefer Kumumoto oysters. You can order them here.) Mix all above ingredients together and let it sit for ten minutes. Spoon onto a perfectly plump and sumptuous oyster, admire her beauty and gently sip the briny, fresh mother of the pearl.

How to Shuck an Oyster

What a lucky few weeks I have had with fresh, fragrant oysters regularly gracing my kitchen.  You see, in between holiday music and evergreen boughs, I have been scheming up Valentine’s Day delicacies.  Since chocolate is the name of my game, I am working on a way to combine the two.  But you’ll have to wait for a month or so to discover the result… I have to keep some secrets close to the vest.

Thanks to my experience at Le Cordon Bleu, I have shucked many an oyster.  A few thousand in and I am still taken by their beauty -  the roughness of the shell juxtaposed to the soft inner folds, the beautiful grays and greens, the subtle alluring aroma of sea. There is truly something magical about them.

My favorite oysters are Kumamoto.  As Hog Island Oyster company describes them, “Originally from the Kumamoto area of Kyushu, Japan, the Kumamoto Oyster takes three years to develop the small, deeply cupped shell that protects its surprisingly plump little morsel. Mildly fruity and sweet with a slightly mineral finish and a rich buttery texture, the Kumamoto is the perfect oyster for beginners.”  Hog Island will ship oysters directly to you but if you happen to be in California along Highway 1, you MUST stop at their picnic area and indulge on the spot.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with oysters at home. In the next week, I will start tempting you with some oyster and chocolate recipe ideas so you may want to practice. You will need a towel and an oyster knife.

1. Check all the oysters and discard any that are not tightly closed.

2. Scrub the oysters with a stiff brush under fresh, running water.

3. Place an oyster in a towel with the more rounded side down and the flat side up.  Hold the oyster as level as you can so that when it opens you don’t lose any of the precious juices.

4. Put your oyster knife into the oyster near the hinge.  You only need to insert about 1/2 inch of the knife.

5. Twist the knife so the muscles of the oyster are severed allowing the top to come off.

6. Carefully remove the top shell.  Scrape any meat attached off the top and into the bottom shell.

7. Slide the oyster knife under the meat to cut the oyster away from the bottom shell while keeping it sitting in the shell.

I like to serve them with the top shell alongside.

Raising the Bar on Drinking Chocolate

When I was a child, there were virtually no coffee shops, espresso drinks or coffee connoisseurs.  The majority of Americans accepted grocery store brew as the norm.  A few decades ago, the first cafes began opening and within some years, lattes, cappuccinos and macchiatos became part of daily routine.  Opinions were formed on how to prepare the best drinks, specialty coffee producers thrived and high end espresso making equipment was purchased for the home.  This country experienced a coffee revolution.

With the advent of coffee houses on every corner came powdered hot chocolate made with steamed milk as an alternative to the spitting spout of convenience stores.  Though you can hardly say it is much of an improvement. Why is it so rarely found a fully frothed, traditional drinking chocolate made with real chocolate to satiate chocolate lovers desires.  I think it is time for a drinking chocolate revolution!  I dream of heavily frothed cocoa with thick foam and molinillos in most utensil drawers.

Interested in joining my crusade?  Let’s drink to it!  How about a perfect cup of chocolat chaud?  Below is the beginning of a drinking chocolate education along with tips and tricks. I’ll keep exploring drinking chocolate this winter.  Join me.

QUALITY CHOCOLATE
It is essential to use quality chocolate to make the best drinking chocolate.  Ingredients are key in all culinary escapades when you hope to end up with the best end result. Do not choose chocolate with fillers and low cacao percentage.  For our La Parisienne drinking chocolate, I include chocolate, Madagascan vanilla bean infused sugar and cocoa powder for an boost of chocolate intensity.

MILK, CREAM OR WATER?
As a stagiaire at the Hotel de Crillon in Paris, my job was to make the chocolat chaud. We used equal parts cream and full fat milk.  The result was  thick, rich drinking chocolate.  I have enjoyed drinking chocolate made with all different milks, dairy and nut milks.  I would suggest never using a microwave to warm it (it kills all the enzymes so I don’t even own one) and frothing the milk by hand or with a blender to feel the sensation that Montezema and the Aztecs did (see below.)  If you are doing cupping or if you are a die hard chocolate purist you may insist on drinking chocolate made with water to taste the full breath of the chocolate as milk tends to mask the chocolate a bit.  

FROTHING COCOA
This is a step that is most often forgotten. The Aztecs, Mayans and Olmecs were the first to sip a chocolate beverage over 500 years ago which was called  xocatyl. This drinking chocolate was a far cry from the type we sip today, a mixture of chillies, annatto, maize and spices, served room temperature. The tincture was poured between two vessels from great heights in order to achieve the revered foam atop—believed to be the most potent portion of the beverage and to hold aphrodisiac powers. Years later when Spanish conquistador Hernando Cortés brought xocatyl back to Spain, the molinillo was created to simplify the foaming process.

To use a Mexican molinillo (pictured left), immerse the end in liquid chocolate and rub the handle rapidly between your palms. Watch as the foam begins to rise.   You may also use a blender or  immersion blender to froth the liquid chocolate as at time the molinillo can take almost 30 minutes to really build a big foam.

With any tasting, texture adds a new layer to the experience.  The light, airy bubbles will burst gently in your mouth followed by the rush of warm liquid chocolate.

Stay tuned for additional experiments with drinking chocolate in the coming months.  The cold Chicago wind is starting to nip at our noses and whistle by the windows.  I’ll be huddling up to the stove warming chocolate!

Jamaican Christmas Sorrel Punch

Though holidays are still not upon us, our Collection of Zion has me reminiscing of all favorite things from Jamaica – including their Christmas sorrel drink. Through December and early January, you can’t get far without finding natives sipping this bright red, sweet rum drink.  The sipping of the Sorrel heralds the beginning of the holiday season.    Christmas season in Jamaica is the most festive time of year with endless celebrations, family gatherings, parties and feasts.

Sorrel (as the drink is commonly called) derives from the plant it comes from. The scientific name is Hibiscus Sabdariffa and is a bushy plant that blooms deep red buds. The drink’s red color is alluring, the aroma is sweet and pungent and the flavor a bit tart. Sipping Sorrel is an integral part of the Jamaican holiday celebration.  

Though this drink would make a perfect offering at a holiday brunch or open house, I had to make a batch already to sip alongside the Rasta truffle (Jamaican sorrel + fresh ginger + nutmeg + mango + white chocolate + hibiscus flower).  Give it a try but beware… a few sips and you may start to hear the faint sounds of the reggae Christmas carols and feel a hint of Jamaican “Christmas breeze” luring you to book a flight and spend your holiday on the island.

Jamaican Christmas Sorrel Punch
 
1 oz dried sorrel petals, or sorrel concentrate
1 cinnamon stick
1 orange, freshly peeled
6 cloves
6 allspice pods
2 cups sugar
2 qts boiling water
3/4 cup Appleton Estate Rum

 In a large crock, combine the sorrel petals, cinnamon stick, orange peel, cloves, allspice and sugar.  Pour boiling water atop, cover, steep at room temp for 2-3 days.

Strain the liquid add the rum. Cover and refrigerate for another 2 days. Serve over crushed ice in pre-chilled glasses. Garnish with cloves and orange peel.

Resource: In Chicago we are blessed with a plethora of ethnic markets for every corner of the globe.

One of my favorites for Caribbean treasures:
Old World Market
5129 N Broadway St
Chicago, IL 60640-3018
(773) 728-2197

Pina Ginger Irie Drink paired with Collection of Zion

This month at Vosges Haut-Chocolat, we are featuring the Collection of Zion which was inspired by my travel experiences in Jamaica and the music of Bob Marley. I have always had a guttural reaction to his music and after listening to the words, I was intrigued by Rastafaris and drawn to learn more about their messages.

Rastafarianism is a religious and political movement that started around the beginning of the 20th century. Rastafarians are mostly vegetarian and live off the land harvesting plants, vegetables, fruits and spices. They wear their hair in dreadlocks as a symbol of their commitment to Jah (God) and achieve spiritual enlightenment by smoking kaya. Bob Marley was one of the first Rastas to bring the political struggle against Babylon (modern society) to mainstream music, spreading the message and increasing awareness. Rastafarians believe in and strive for a perfect world called Zion.  Bob Marley sang of it often.  The Collection of Zion was inspired by Bob Marley’s message and it explores the flowers, fruits and herbs of Jamaica through chocolate. 

The island of Jamaica is home to a fascinating blend of cultures. Jamaican inhabitants came from around the globe, bringing with them cooking techniques, flavors and the spices of their homelands. Blending this with the bountiful harvest of the tropical island brought forth some of the most flavorful cuisine in the Caribbean. These are the flavors which inspire the Zion collection… Jamaican allspice, with its essence of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove, is used in jerk seasonings, sauces and curries. The sorrel flower, brought from India, blooms in December in deep red shades. 

While in Jamaica, I sipped pineapple drinks that were made from the skin of the pineapple.  Not only does this sweet sipping nectar transport you to the tropics with its aroma and flavor, it utilizes a part of the fruit that is normally considered waste.   In Rastafarian vocabulary, Irie refers to positive emotions or feelings, or anything that is good.  Specifically, it refers to high emotions and peaceful vibrations.   Imbibe this Pina Ginger Irie Drink between bites of chocolate truffles from the Collection of Zion.  Turn up the Bob Marley and see how the sweet vibrations begin to flow…

Pina Ginger Irie Drink

1 peel of fresh pineapple + 2 cups small chunks of pineapple
2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated
3 cups boiling water
1 cup sugar
crushed ice

Freeze chunks of pineapple in the freezer overnight to make “pineapple ice.” You may want to lay them on a parchment lined baking sheet for a few hours in the freezer and then put them in a bag or airtight container so they do not freeze into one large chunk.
 
Place the pineapple skin and grated ginger in a large bowl.  Stir the sugar into the boiling water and then pour it over the pineapple skin and ginger.  Let it sit until the liquid reaches room temperature then cover  it and  place in the refrigerator.  The next day, strain the liquid and serve over crushed ice and your frozen pineapple ice.  

A fabulous compliment to the Zion truffle in this collection (tamarind, 65% dark chocolate and scotch bonnet).

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, Mexico

Experiencing Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, Mexico is one of the most precious memories from all my travels.  El Dia de los Muertos – Day of the Dead is a flavorful and ceremonial celebration devoted to honoring and welcoming back the souls of deceased loved ones. Bright and colorful altars are constructed in homes and public places adorned with a vibrant array of glowing votive candles, photos, marigolds, crafts and favorite foods of the deceased including beer, chocolate, grasshoppers, sugar skull heads as ofrendas. Every year at Vosges Haut-Chocolat, we make exotic chocolate skulls encrusted with black salt, jeweled eyes to commemorate this most vibrant of holidays.

Day of the Dead, celebrated on November 1-2,  is a historic Meso-American holiday that originated from the Aztecs 3000 years earlier. When the Spanish Conquistadors landed in what is now Mexico nearly 500 years ago, they encountered natives practicing this ritual that seemed to mock death. It was a ritual the Spaniards would try unsuccessfully to eradicate. Although the ceremony has since been merged with Catholic theology, it still maintains the basic principles the Aztecs had intended, a view that death is the continuation of life. Life was a dream and only in death did one become truly awake.
The skulls were used to symbolize this cycle of death and rebirth. As the Aztecs and other Meso-American civilizations kept skulls as trophies and displayed them during the ritual to honor the dead and exalt the sphere of death and rebirth.

Much of the holiday centers around preparation of the best foods that are offered to ancestors who come back to visit the living during this narrow window of time.  Colorful skeletons in all forms decorate homes, cemeteries and altars.   Weeks in advance, time is expressly taken to prepare moles, marzipan, tamales and calabacha en tacha, candied pumpkin soaked in clove and cinnamon spiced brown sugar syrup.  Traditional liquors such as Mezcal served with worm ground salt and pulque are also abundantly served during the celebration.

A few years ago, I hosted a Yoga + Chocolate retreat in Oaxaca during the Day of the Dead celebration with my dear friend and yoga master, David Romanelli. Daily yoga and food experiences were centered around Oaxaca’s history and culinary traditions- this is the land of 7 moles and chocolate after all.  If you are feeling spontaneous and need a break from your daily grind, I insist you book a last minute trip to Oaxaca to enjoy the Day of the Dead celebrations on November 1 and 2nd.   Below is the itinerary from our Mexican yoga + chocolate excursion full of MUST DO experiences in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca, Mexico – Travel Recommendations

HOTELS
I highly recommend staying at the amazing Camino Real. The Camino Real is a gorgeous 5-star hotel set in a 15th century former convent of Santa Catalina. Otherwise, consider the Casa Oaxaca where you should visit no matter what for a Temazcal appointment and a dinner.

DAY 1
Every morning you will have the option to enjoy Camino Real’s famous Oaxacan breakfast buffet, an event not be missed while you dine within one of the many courtyards and listen to the sounds of monks singing.  Be sure to try the chapulines (grasshoppers) and pan de yema dipped in chocolate con leche or chocolate con agua, the favored drink of Oaxaca.

During the day, enjoy a trip to Teotitlán del Valle, a small village just outside of Oaxaca that is famous for rug weaving, mezcal distilleries, and the Mendoza’s Tlamanalli Restaurant.  If you can arrange a Comida Zapotecan old-style Zapotecan cooking in a class with one of the 4 Zapotec sisters, Abigail Mendoza you will be in for a treat.  After lunch visit a local mezcal producer and distillery learn about the art of making mezcal.  Dinner at El Naranjo, Iliana de la Vega’s renowned restaurant.

DAY 2
Depart for Monte Alban, a group of hills in the center of the Valle de Oaxaca which  holds one of the oldest cities on the American continent.  It is the capital of Zapotec culture with ancient ruins dating back to 500BC. Have a quick lunch at La Capilla, a famous open-air restaurant where you can see how they make blandas and tlayudas on large griddles.  You’ll experience their excellent regional cooking, specializing in mole negro, a mole with chocolate.  After lunch, stop briefly in Coyotepec, the home of black pottery, before heading back to the hotel. You will see this lace cut pottery all over Camino Real illuinated by candle light at dusk.

In the evening, visit the village and cemeteries of Xoxocotlan for Day of the Dead festivities. Click here for the description of the history, significance, and festivities surrounding this unique Mexican holiday.

DAY 3
Arrange a cooking class at Restaurant El Naranjo with one of Oaxaca’s most popular female chefs, Iliana de la Vega of El Naranjo.  Experience a hands-on cooking class after which you’ll sojourn to the Benito Juarez market and a local chocolate mill, where Iliana will explain the seasonal produce, the wide variety of fresh and dry chilies, and the making of Mexican chocolate.

DAY 4
Take a guided tour of Oaxaca City.  Visit the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca.  The fourteen halls set in this museum, within the former convent of Santo Domingo, are an absolute must see. Lunch in Oaxaca’s main town square, known as the zocalo, at La Casa de la Abuella.  This restaurant demonstrates superb local Oaxacan cooking prepared according to old recipes carefully preserved by the lovely owner, Olga Scherenberg de Martinez.  The restaurant has a gorgeous view of the surrounding mountains, the town’s Cathedral and the zocalo.  The mole almendrado is highly recommended.

In the afternoon, explore 20 de Noviembre Mercado, the most popular market in Oaxaca, to experience wonderful Mexican food including Tlayuda grilled meats, chocolates, and moles. Try dinner at Marco Polo at 5 de Mayo Street.

DAY 5
Hike the mountains in the Sierra Norte, land of “the cloud people.”  The trip runs between 6-7 hours in total, including three hours of hiking. The hike is at 10,000 feet above sea level and is suitable for avid hikers only.  Then have a lunch at La Casa del Pueblo Restaurant. If staying in Oaxaca and opting out of the hike, be sure to visit the Photography Museum, a small contemporary open-air museum donated by internationally acclaimed, local artist Francisco Toledo.  The Contemporary Art Museum is another worthwhile one to visit. Dinner at Casa Oaxaca a must!

DAY 6
Spend an unforgettable day with famous chef Susana Trilling, including a comprehensive cooking class and market tour in Etla, giving you an insider’s knowledge of Mexican culture through its cuisine.  This is an experience of Mexico most visitors never have. Susana Trilling, teacher, chef, writer and television host will teach you to work with the native foods of Mexico.  The class, tour and lectures focus on pre-Hispanic foods, traditional culinary, medicinal, and spiritual herb usage, and the Spanish influence on the contemporary Oaxacan kitchen.  The participation-based class combined with the market tour provides fantastic insight into the daily Oaxacan food culture.

RANCHO AURORA, Susana’s home, is on a hillside farm overlooking the pueblo of San Lorenzo Cacaotepec in Etla.  It has a breathtaking view of the valley.  There, you will discover where the food you cook is grown, gathered, and prepared for use in the many forms of Mexican cuisine. Susana also has a marvelous store at her school for you food-ies and gadget collectors.  Note that her store only takes cash, either in dollars or pesos, or traveler’s checks – but no credit cards.  If using traveler’s checks, be sure to bring your passport.

Dinner at La Olla.

EXPERIENCED TRAVELERS… for those of you who have Oaxaca recommendations of your own, please leave comments. I am always looking for new adventures!